January 17, 2011 German Welt Tutorial 3.
Back, again. This time we attach the bottom filler (not illustrated, it is very much basic), and the sole.

Traditionally, for a nice looking shoes (there are some practical reasons also for that) we skive the shank a bit. It means 1/4 of the thickness around 2,5 cm inside. We might want to mark it on the edge for precise work
Also from the flesh side
Make sure you make a precise work. It is not enough to make one nice shoe.. you have to make a pair
A piece of roundly broken glass is an effective tool when you deal with a hard material like a JR sole
And don’t forget to rasp the shiny surface
Welt also
Glue, wait, attach. Fiddleback construction need a bit care. Tutorial about fiddleback is here.
Sole hammer. MAybe one day I will explain why I use the hammer this angle, which seems to be a mistake…
Yeah, this tool is also coming to the webshop soon.
Using a special tool to push the welt straight and smooth.
Trim the sole edge.
Koronya lip knife.
Alsready look sexy, doesn’t it? Look, how thin the welt is.
Making the stitching channel. ball to ball: sole thick-wide. Shanks: double.
And cut. Not much room for mistakes.
To be continued…
- 10 comments
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Andrew
said
very interesting// waiting next/
Loooook is soo sexy
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Hal
said
Stunning.
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Wayne
said
Just wondering…do you make most of your welt shoes on plastic lasts? Or is this just for just for this tutorial? Is there as an advantage for this or is wood much better?
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koronya
said
Wayne. Welcome in the 21th century. We shoemaker use plastic and wood lasts as well. The main difference, that you can use wood lasts for 20-30 pairs, plastic practically forever. Plastic is nothing to do about welted or other technique – it is just more precise, durable… and anyway – this last is for my RTW collection.
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Jake Dobbins
said
Will there ever be a Koronya lip knife in the store? I want one!
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koronya
said
Ooops. I thought I already ported them..
I will do it soon! Thanks for reminding me!
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Branislav
said
Marcell,if anybody know -you know ,because you are top master in this job ,please tell me what is Tramezza process by Ferragamo.
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paul martin
said
What cork is used as bottom filler please?
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howaerd
said
Very interesting. I wish to do this as well sometime.
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