July 27, 2011 Norwegian Sewn Tutorial – Part V.
Attach the metal shank and the bottom fillers. Yes the metal shank is a must – you don’t want to make a shoe which collapses after a few times on your customer’s foot, right?
You need to cut a slightly bigger piece for the upper leather, or something thin (a 2-2,5 mm veg tanned leather is also god, but you need a soft leather here – soon you will see why)
attach from the toe
if you havea last standard, that could be your third hand, holding the last.
press it flat and smooth with a bone folder
then trim back the edge. Leave at least 5-6 mm, not less. The stitches will modify the shape a bit, so you HAVE to trim it again.
then attach the midsole. That might be 2-3 mm, not thicker.
Stitch. You don’t need stitch marker – just make nice, even 4-5 mm long stitches, close to the previous line.
Then finish it at the bottom
And this is where the fun starts. Do you remember – I did not suggest to start practice this rtechnique, unless you are a pro – here we are. Here you need a steady hand and there is no use to tiptoe around it – you have one shot. (and one sloppy move)
Then trim the midsole about the right shape.
Done for today. Next stitching line will be even more difficult. (have you ever wondered, why bespoke shoes are so expensive?)
does anyone read these tutorials???