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Shoes and Craft

A shoemaker's blog about shoemaking

Author Archives: koronya


but you can call them blue suede, as you probably don’t know any songs about nubuck shoes, right? Anyway – a simple, casual derby for everyday, just to add a hint of color to your khakis, maybe jeans.

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blue nubuck derby


We just received some superb quality german reinforcement tapes – way better quality than before and… now reinforcement for eyelets came back. This time not from the nasty fiberglass, but 1″ wide polyester.
The whole kit on sale for a week: self adhesive topline, backline, reinforcement and eyelet reinforcement tapes (all 100 yards). + one 200 yards complimentary topline (this is athe old fashioned, 1,3 mm wide).

szalagok
http://www.cordwainertools.com


Budapester, duotone, double goyser. …and yes I make these for orders too.

Oxblood balck Budapester


I have a great news – finally we have inseaming awls and channel knives back to stock!

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Beside that I have an other great news – all customer, who purchase over 100 USD, will receive a complimentary Shoemaking DVD.

This one:

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Here we go again, continuing the derby shoes. To make sure that the adjustment is perfect, we need to use the paper pattern again, and mark the overlaps with a silver pen.

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First things first – let’s check if we have everything. Pattern pieces – even we clicked the leather, we still need them for marking the overlaps, folding, etc.

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This is a long and heated conversation between the industry professionals. The question sounds like this: what is “handmade”? Makers, like me (and many others, working with their hand and tools only), would answer this way:  “surely handmade is a product which is made by hand entirely”. Sounds logical, isn’t it? It is so funny that a machine, which makes the work way easier, can change that opinion rapidly. A sole stitcher, a line finisher tends to plant idea in people’s mind that their product is still handmade, as “everybody use those anyways”*. Once I have a conversation with an investor (not my investor – that is actually me, and only me) and he had a valuable opinion about it. He thought that there is no really handmade anyways. (let me put this here: there is. But really very rare). He thought that even the case of high end shoes the upper are machine stitched, skived, the sole is machine sanded, etc. So after all – he said – all the shoes are partially machine made. To be very correct, he used this philosophy to justify a welting and sole stitching machine in his “handmade’ process.

We must admit – handmade sounds good. Just like “natural”, “healthy” or “organic”. These are those words which can sell a product, even justify a higher price tag. Why wouldn’t we use it then, right? Let’s be realistic: there is no control. Companies, as long as they can, will use “handmade”. Customers – well, they have no idea. They believe those labels, printed on fancy recycled papers (and a company which that much environment conscious MUST be honest in the same time, right?).

Here is what WE can do. First of all: we have to be honest in a World which is not honest. Instead of coming up with new and vague terms, let’s be specific.

 

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