…and still not the end of the new designs which are coming..
I might make a tutorial about it, if anyone interested in oxford patterns..
By the way we still have a few spots left to the courses. If they fill up we only make a waiting list. http://shoesandcraft.com/2013/01/06/courses-in-2013-summer/
This is something, what I teach in the first few classes. Almost the same for every pattern – raise the counter and move in 3-3 millimeters, but the leather can change that). The other line is for lining – a bit more in as that takes less material.
After smoothing the curves I copy the medial lines.
I averaged them, but careful! You can’t do it with every last! The tongue is together with the vamp on the same axis. You need to pivot it down – it will anywhere anyway as it is very narrow.
All the lines are clear, the unnecessary ones erased – ready to make the pattern pieces.
Here they are. Only one step left – make a specification sheet. Copy ALL the visible lines to a piece of paper and make all the stitch lines, brogues, etc + specifications on it, so your upper maker on the other side of the ocean will understand them.
Somewhere a wingtip derby take a special place in our heart, reserved for those day, when we need a little attention to our footwear. this will get that for sure. Recently I met a famous fashion designer – we have regularly some of those at the college I work for – and I have seen a Budapest shoe in his foot. Somehow it looked familiar. Shoes are just shoes for an untrained eye, but you cal tell if you had a closer contact with one. So I asked him, how does he likes his Budapest shoes? He was shocked that I know the name. Then I asked him: did you buy them from this and this company around 20 years ago? Yes, he said and seemed even more surprised. Then I described him how the sole looks like without taking a look and the little decoration which were at the side. Well, I was cheating – I was in that little Hungarian workshop many years ago an an apprentice, so that very shoe could have been my work (very unlikely though, but I made many of those). Triangular brass nails decorations – 4 on the lateral, 3 in the medial side, wide sole painting, little burnishing marks on the heel edge – typical from the Austro-Hungarian school, etc. By the way the shoe was in a amazing condition.
I believe he got the special attention he took that shoe for in the morning.
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Continue reading this article ›
And yes… that is my computer in the background, what I use to write my post, answer your mails, etc. This shoe might be done in a few days, so this time I try to make some better pictures.
…but not a full post.
So, recently I started to offer consultation for a few companies, which includes design, patterns, prototypes, some logistic and business tips. This needs some custom prototypes, which is possible if the shoe doesn’t have to be wearable, but my opinion is: the shoe should be wearable. Heels, like this (stilettos I mean) are not easy to prototype, that is why I started to make this experiment. I will keep you informed – until now it is very promising.
I had a last which I plan to use for my RTW collection – you can see it in the front on the first picture. I made several modification on it over the years, but I always found something more to improve. I decided to come up with a new last – not only a change on the old RTW 224, but a new shape. I did not even started building up or shaping the old one – I just took a piece of special foam (I have no idea about its name), and get a rasp, sandpaper and work!
It took only a few minutes – as it is a very soft material – to see the first lines. I did not document the process, that is almost impossible on my own – not just dirty and dusty, but when I create, I just do anything else. I believe I am not the only one.
Tags: last design
I posted several tutorials in the past 5 years, on youtube, wordpress, behance, several forums so pretty much all the social media I could reach and imagine (and: had access).
I start to feel that these don’t get enough attention – most probably, because it is hard to find them. So here they are, I collected them. Read and learn.
Let me know if I should post any more. I will consider if I would do it. On the other hand – as I expressed this opinion a many times – I only believe that a Craft should be taught personally, from a good teacher. Internet is a great help, but for the basics, for really good, deep knowledge a teacher is a must. No video, no book, no nothing is a good alternative, wherever you are, whatever your situation is – without proper tuition you loose your money and your time and only make ‘almost’ good pieces.
If you mean shoemaking seriously (I mean you want to learn it) consider to come at least on of these courses: http://www.shoemakingcourse.com/new-schedule-summer-courses-2013
HIgh Heel Tutorials
Metal Toe Tap
Toe stiffener lasting
Insole preparation for English welt
Render a High Heel
Making a High Heel shoe
Finishing a Shoe
Norwegian Sewn (not welted!!)
Skiving Heel Counter
I blog since 2008 under the name of handmadeshoes.wordpress.com. From now my blog will operate under shoesandcraft.com. Don’t worry – I did not sell it, I will not sell any promotions on it, it is still mine, I write every single post on it.
So, the why I changed the name?
1. Short, more simple. This is the main reason.
2. It is still hosted by wordpress, same server, same speed, availability.. etc.
3. This gives a wider range of topics to write about.
Anyway – I hope you will like it.