Goyser this time, one of my speciality.
This one is made for the modified last no. 224 for bespoke order.
…and this is my new Budapest last, duotone cordovan.
Sorry for the short notice, but it just turned out, that I can take 2 apprentices for 3 weeks in December, in Savannah, GA. Hands-on, old fashioned apprenticeship course. Please contact me if you are interested.
Due the many mails I received, let me answer some questions here:
- the course is flexible. I am available from 20th of November
- the course program is also flexible. We will make upper pattern constructions, and at least 2 different shoe constructions and a lot of practices
- I don’t provide lodging, but there are B&B close by (one in the same street 4 houses away)
- Hours: everyday from 9 to 4.
And.. the weather is great here in Savannah in the winter!
I can’t even remember how many times I have seen student struggling with their threads during sewing, which is obviously easy to avoid, if you know how to prepare them properly. This way.
1. First – you put a good amount of shoemaker’s wax on it, rubbing the thread on the wax. I have heard a lot of recipes, here is mine: I melt one part resin with one part beeswax and just a little bit of paraffin. When they are well mixed I pour the hot mixture to a bucket of cold water and make balls. Done, no mess, no burned hands.
2. Now you have to spin the thread on your lap – S spin – away from you, Z spin – towards yourself. Spin and pul in the SAME time.
If you did a good job, now you have a nice, long tapered end. Just to be sure – repeat the these steps again.
Find the part of the thread, which is not the full thickness, and press it flat with the needle.
Then push it through twice. Note: the eye of the needle is closer to the tapered end.
Now pull the thread through the eye. If you did well, you have a S shape in your hand (or a reversed S, if you hold it like I did on the photo)
Slowly pull the needle towards the pointy end. (these needles actually blunt)
Well, done. Almost there.
Now you have to spin the needle (this is a curved needle, so it will be easy). By the way, again – S spin away, Z spin – toward yourself)
Done, ready for sewing. The needle looks like the end of the thread, same thickness, just a little transition from thread to metal. The black dirt (wax) on your hand comes of easily with any commercial hand sanitizer gel.
And finally some explanation, what is “S” and “Z” spin.
And before you ask – it is not out yet. We just work hard on it, so one nice day I can announce that it is. Please be patient, give me some time, it takes a while to make those examples and illustrations and finish writing. Until then I promise to keep you updated and post photos. Here are some:
I received a huge shipment from Hungary which go straight to the webshop in the next few days.
An old classic, the Cemented Construction DVD – the last few pieces.
Measuring Tape, a must in every workshop
Folding Hammer, if you mean upper making seriously.
More to come.. many more.
I was referring to one of my favorite Beatles song, but let’s put jokes aside - I came back from Hungary after a very exciting and beneficial trip, surely to the United States where I live – unbelievable, but – since 2011.
So, I bought back a “little” work to complete. It seems scary as I work alone, but I love what I do. I can hardly wait to put my hands on them. Most of these shoes will be illustrations in my upcoming book, for different constructions, finishing, etc.
OK. This one will be mine. I never had a cordovan shoe. This going to be a Budapester on my redesigned Budapest last (made to my measurements.. of course), and goyser construction.
And something even more exciting – for my fellow shoemakers. Tools, tools, tools. This is just the ones which are already arrived: channels knives. The story behind these knives – they are not just regular channel knives. I redesigned them a little bit to use them on thicker insoles (like Bakers), and also adjusted the shapes a bit. Razor sharp (hopefully) life-long tools. By the way – they go really fast, if you want to have one, don’t hesitate, order now.
There will be an other shipment arriving very soon with a bunch of new tools and supplies – we are going to triple the number of goods in the webshop! http://www.cordwainertools.com
There two more exciting news, but it is a secret for now – very soon I will announce them.
I returned from Hungary and the great news: I brought back a lot of stuff to the webshop, and I really mean a lot. We will photo shoot them in the next few days and upload them to the system. Until then a little teaser (available right now) the insole channel knifes. 25 handmade, razor sharp tools, hopefully good for a lifetime.