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Shoes and Craft

“A shoemaker's blog about shoemaking”

March 31, 2013 Last Design I.


I had a last which I plan to use for my RTW collection – you can see it in the front on the first picture. I made several modification on it over the years, but I always found something more to improve. I decided to come up with a new last – not only a change on the old RTW 224, but a new shape. I did not even started building up or shaping the old one – I just took a piece of special foam (I have no idea about its name), and get a rasp, sandpaper and work!

It took only a few minutes – as it is a very soft material – to see the first lines. I did not document the process, that is almost impossible on my own – not just dirty and dusty, but when I create, I just do anything else. I believe I am not the only one.

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March 16, 2013 Tutorials, Collected


I posted several tutorials in the past 5 years, on youtube, wordpress, behance, several forums so pretty much all the social media I could reach and imagine (and: had access).
I start to feel that these don’t get enough attention – most probably, because it is hard to find them. So here they are, I collected them. Read and learn.

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Let me know if I should post any more. I will consider if I would do it. On the other hand – as I expressed this opinion a many times – I only believe that a Craft should be taught personally, from a good teacher. Internet is a great help, but for the basics, for really good, deep knowledge a teacher is a must. No video, no book, no nothing is a good alternative, wherever you are, whatever your situation is – without proper tuition you loose your money and your time and only make ‘almost’ good pieces.

If you mean shoemaking seriously (I mean you want to learn it) consider to come at least on of these courses: http://www.shoemakingcourse.com/new-schedule-summer-courses-2013

 

HIgh Heel Tutorials

 

http://shoesandcraft.com/2013/02/18/sandal-insole-covering-tutorial/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2013/02/17/high-heel-tutorial-cover-a-heel/

 

Metal Toe Tap

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/04/11/welted-tutorial-3-and-a-half/

 

Welting

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/03/28/shoemaking-tutorial-iii/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/04/15/welting-video-tutorial/

 

Crimping

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/01/14/crimping-tutorial-step-by-step/

 

Toe stiffener lasting

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/03/21/welted-tutorial-ii-lasting-the-toe-stiffner/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/02/16/sidestiff/

 

Insole preparation for English welt

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/03/06/welted-construction-shoemaking-tutorial-for-advanced-shoemakers/

 

Flip Flop

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/01/17/a-flip-flop-tutorial/

 

Render a High Heel

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/11/20/render-a-patent-leather-red-high-heel-tutorial-again/

 

Derby render

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/11/19/shoe-design-tutorial-how-to-render-a-shoe-design/

 

Patterns

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/09/17/making-a-flat-womens-ballet-shoe-pattern-tutorial/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/01/15/insole-shape-construction/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/01/20/pattern-construction-derby-i/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/01/26/pattern-making-derby-ii/

 

Making a High Heel shoe

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/07/28/high-heel-tutorial-i/

 

Finishing a Shoe

http://shoesandcraft.com/2009/12/30/finishing-shoe-making-tutorial-2/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2012/12/05/heel-edge-finishing/

 

Cemented Construction

 

http://shoesandcraft.com/2009/12/26/comprehensive-tutorial-for-the-cemented-construction/

 

German Welt

 

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/01/13/german-welt-tutorial-2/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/01/17/german-welt-tutorial-iii/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/01/18/german-welt-tutorial-4/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/01/19/german-welt-tutorial-final-part/

 

English welt

http://shoesandcraft.com/2009/06/09/tutorial-lasting-and-heelseat-stitching/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2009/06/10/tutorial-2/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2009/06/17/the-end-of-the-tutorial/

 

Norwegian Sewn (not welted!!)

http://shoesandcraft.com/2010/01/07/tutorial-3-making-a-norwegian-welted-construction/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2010/01/12/shoemaking-tutorial-norwegian-ii/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/07/24/norwegia-sewn-tutorial-iii/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/07/26/norwegian-sewn-tutorial-part-iv/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/07/27/norwegian-sewn-tutorial-part-v/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2010/01/23/norwegian-tutorial-the-end/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/08/04/norwegian-final-part/

 

Welt Making

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/07/22/tutorial-again-preparing-a-welt-for-beginners/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/07/22/preparing-the-english-welt-a-shoe-making-tutorials-for-pros/

 

Skiving Heel Counter

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/04/15/skiving-tutorial/

http://shoesandcraft.com/2011/01/28/skiving-tutorial-heel-counter/

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February 24, 2013 Shoesandcraft from Now


IMG_3622I blog since 2008 under the name of handmadeshoes.wordpress.com. From now my blog will operate under shoesandcraft.com. Don’t worry – I did not sell it, I will not sell any promotions on it, it is still mine, I write every single post on it.

So, the why I changed the name?

1. Short, more simple. This is the main reason.

2. It is still hosted by wordpress, same server, same speed, availability.. etc.

3. This gives a wider range of topics to write about.

Anyway – I hope you will like it.

February 18, 2013 Sandal Insole Covering Tutorial


When you make a simple sandal with THIN straps, you need to cover the edges and the toe. It is one of the easiest job of a shoemaker. You will need a strap and a toe cover.

First of all let’s make a pattern for the toe! put a line on the top – and copy to the other side! Now just turn it face down on a paper and trace it!

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February 17, 2013 High Heel Tutorial – Cover a Heel


DSC_1684

This is something essential, you need to learn for a ‘simple’ pump. Simple things are the most difficult sometimes, but if you are aware of some easy rules, you don’t need to be afraid – this is a piece of cake. I remember when I was 15, working on my first pegged construction, my master worked on a heel like this. In those times we did not only study shoemaking, but ‘steal the craft’ as they said – learn as much as we could, watching the older ones, even if they did not explained. Luckily he was OK to share this with me, so beside enjoying the first pegged welt attachment, I had an eye on a heel. This is the way I was taught and I do. You might find it pretty handy.

This is what we are looking for. Do you realize the front perfectly matching? This is what we need there. If there is gap – do it again.

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January 24, 2013 How to Start a Shoe Business?


“Imagine that you are a warrior wielding a naked blade against your enemies…and they all look professional by way of blades. Some have bulging muscles, although the leather armor they wear is cheap and poorly constructed. Those have the largest numbers though, more than you could ever hope to match.
In contrast to them are other enemies, officers whose pricey blades and armor easily stand out among the rest. You know that despite their flair however, these enemies lack any real skill, thinking that an expensive sword will fight their battles for them. They look good though, and the rest of the minions, those without skill or money, still look impressive simply due to the sheer size of their numbers.
You know that you have better training, discipline, and talent than any of them, but how can you prove yourself among the sea of other contenders?”

January 23, 2013 Koronya in New York


This time I am talking about the products. I decided a long time ago, that I am going to make ready to wear products in a higher level: almost the same as bespoke. Same materials, same perfection, entirely handmade. I am sure I can’t sell a lot, but after all – I can’t make a lot. I am just wondering if this new approach to the market will work or not? I really think it will.

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