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Shoes and Craft

A shoemaker's blog about shoemaking

Monthly Archives: November 2008


When I decided to step into the rtw market, I was sure that I want to start with a traditional English style oxford, just I didn’t find the right last. I was searching for months for this, but without success. Finally I just realised that I know exactly, what I need (when I mean exactly, I really mean it)  – why don’t I start to make it on my own? So made a new last from my 801 modell, and made a pair of straight cut oxford on it. I think this is a shoe for those, who never have any bespoke shoes, but they want to have something like that. .. and this is really like that – 100% handmade, high end quality leathers, no synthetic stuff in it. Leather, leather.. 

 

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Let’s start with a sneak peak picture. I made it today, when I was about leaving. I thought some people would be interested to see what I am working on..

shoes in progress

These are my actual orders.. Some of them are just laying on the last, without stiffners, some are lasted, waiting for welting and finishing.

First in the row: a new adlaide (I hope it is the name in English). Nothing special…except its material, which is VERY special. The leather has been tanned in Soviet Union, many years ago. Half veg-tannad, hal chrome. Most probably this leather is made for the high ranked army officals’ boot. Almost 2 mm thick, very durable, perfect for bespoke shoes. I have only a few hides from an old shoemaker, no more will come or appear on the market most probably.

Second is a chukka – for myself. Winter is coming. 🙂

Then a straight cut oxford, and an other wholecut from the mentioned material.

This one:


This is the method for fixing the upper to the insole, without synthetic (or any) glue. This method is really ancient (I will teach it in my NY course). If someone wants to have something really special – he can have it. Goes to pegged shoes.

[B](There are anyone here who thought about why shoemaker prefers pegged shoes, instead of sewn?
I met many old masters in the last few years, and almost all of them wear pegged shoes.. hmm. [/B]

Finally a nice story about my calf-stingray oxford I posted before:

The customer of this shoes didn’t take it on yet. Actually he keeps it in the display cabinet (?). Very nice from him, very low efficient advertisement for me… 😦

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I decided to continue blogging here, instead of Styleforum.net – which hosted my blog, as a thread, but to tell the truth, wasn’t so practical to follow (or frankly impossibile after a certain point). Anyway: thanks styleforum for that!

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