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Shoes and Craft

A shoemaker's blog about shoemaking

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A prototype of the RTW serie. I plan to make some small changes in them – pattern and sole finish as well.

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Custom made orders, ready to send away. The cognac goes to Asia, black to NYC. Good travel boys!

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Also a bespoke order. Very durable, double spinned goyser stitch, and a Vibram sole. I had to order it like this, because Vibram is not prepared to the wide goyser welt… or I didn’t find the right sole. I tried to contact them, but silence. So I ordered a sole and a heel block like this.  This is “bespoke” – whatever the customers wants he (or soon she – yes I plan to make women shoes) will get it. Two travel to Vienna, many letters, phonecalls, etc.

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This is the first step after designing the pattern. I call it “pullover”. The right one is the first version – I wasn’t that satisfied with the toe cut – you cat see the silver line, different than the toe cut stitch (and that one doesn’t have lining). The left one is an almost perfect, only small changes needed. The lining hopefully was perfect – I make it in a special way – you will see it in the next picture.

 

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This is what I mean – toe and tongue lining together. There are some problems to make it (if there is any demand I can explain, but I think it is interesting only for shoemakers).

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And a finished upper, with a prepared bespoke last.. yes, this will be an ITEM. This leather looks like this before it gets the final finish with antiqued toe. This light chocolat colour will become almost black – unbelievable, isn’t it?

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Finished uppers – ready to work with them. Actually I don’t plan to make shoes from them, maybe apprentices will do.

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Aren’t they just beautiful? There belong to an old shoemaker (passed away recently). He made them for himself, and when I visited his shop, buying tools, his son gave me them as a present. The stitches on the upper are unbelievable small, and nice made. When I employ a new upper maker (I had some in the last few years), I show them – this is what I wait. This pair is around 50 years old (maybe more, know knows?)

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Old last from an other workshop. I wouldn’t call them stylish, but I don’t want to through them away. Some of them are very nice and precisely made actually.

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And the new generation waiting on the shelves to form a new pair of shoe. They are made from high densitiy plastic, also very precisely. 🙂

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Stingray skins – also for bespoke orders. It is always a nice experience to see a wide selection in a workshop, even you will choose a regular boxcalf after. 

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