German Welt Tutorial 3.

Back, again. This time we attach the bottom filler (not illustrated, it is very much basic), and the sole.

Traditionally, for a nice looking shoes (there are some practical reasons also for that) we skive the shank a bit. It means  1/4 of the thickness around 2,5 cm inside. We might want to mark it on the edge for precise work

Also from the flesh side

Make sure you make a precise work. It is not enough to make one nice shoe.. you have to make a pair 😉

A piece of roundly broken glass is an effective tool when you deal with a hard material like a JR sole

And don’t forget to rasp the shiny surface

Welt also

Glue, wait, attach. Fiddleback construction need a bit care. Tutorial about fiddleback is here.

Sole hammer. MAybe one day I will explain why I use the hammer this angle, which seems to be a mistake…

Yeah, this tool is also coming to the webshop soon.

Using a special tool to push the welt straight and smooth.

Trim the sole edge.

Koronya lip knife.

Alsready look sexy, doesn’t it? Look, how thin the welt is.

Making the stitching channel. ball to ball: sole thick-wide. Shanks: double.

And cut. Not much room for mistakes.

To be continued…

10 thoughts on “German Welt Tutorial 3.

  1. Just wondering…do you make most of your welt shoes on plastic lasts? Or is this just for just for this tutorial? Is there as an advantage for this or is wood much better?

    1. Wayne. Welcome in the 21th century. We shoemaker use plastic and wood lasts as well. The main difference, that you can use wood lasts for 20-30 pairs, plastic practically forever. Plastic is nothing to do about welted or other technique – it is just more precise, durable… and anyway – this last is for my RTW collection.

  2. Marcell,if anybody know -you know ,because you are top master in this job ,please tell me what is Tramezza process by Ferragamo.

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