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Shoes and Craft

A shoemaker's blog about shoemaking

Monthly Archives: March 2012


Before we start, it would be useful to clear an important thing: mistakes are cumulating. You leave a little extra around the heel when you trim the insole – it will look ugly when you finish the lasting, the heel base so the finally the heel will look like a sick potato. Not so great.

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Sizing – this is typical.. I mean not knowing anything about it. I usually ask my students about their feet size in the first class – they tell me a number, let’s say 7. Then I ask – 7 WHAT? They can’t answer. Never.

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What is the most common type of shoe, we create for orders? That is an easy question – the English welt. pretty much this is the only one customer know, so they ask for this. On the other hand this is the highest peek for many “professionals” as well. but, anyway.. Nothing is wrong with it, this is a nice construction. (on the other hand there are some other, nice construction, which should be also popular.. honestly no customer finds me asking for an ‘opanka’ shoe) So, English welt is one of the most elegant, but why not combine it more interesting (and sleek) with an other technology – the German welt?

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I feel ashamed not to post for a while, but the next one will make it up to you – that will be a tutorial about the most common technique, we bespoke makers use – the English welt technique. I warn you: it is only for pros, but it doesn’t mean you can’t try if you don’t count be one. Anyway, it will be useful for many shoemakers, I believe.

So a small teaser.