Shoemaking tutorial III. – Toe Lasting and Welting

Here we go now. The toe puff is nicely dried, hard, ready to continue the work.

First step is shaping to exaggerate the shape of the last – why? Easy: we want to have a nice, sharp shape in the toe, not something covered with several layers, so practically a last shaped potato.

Then we remove the nails, so we can do something about the wrinkles and the lasting allowance.

So get rid of the access – you just need a little, going under the stitches, not so much more. By the way… Toe puff has some important role, like providing shape for the shoe. If it doesn’t have lasting allowance, it is just not structured enough for that. Keep lasting allowance on your toe puffs!

Skiving.. on the last and the holdfast.. not an easy job, so not for beginners. There is no room for “trial and error”

make the final shaping with a good rasp..

And finish it with the handle of your hammer. Why – I can hear this question.. well. Let me explain. The upper must slide on the toe puff, if you want to achieve a smooth surface. Wood helps to make the surface really smooth.

Here we go – ready for lasting.

Apply glue, clean the brush on the upper – you are OK to continue lasting.

Cordovan is a thick leather – it can be stretched, it can be compressed – that is why the nails are not so close – same theory, what we used with the toe puff.

Ready for welting. You don’t need to wait.

The side is pretty dry, so let’s just remove a bunch of nails.

Dampen the holdfast a bit, get a good Koronya awl (did you realize how smooth I embed this self-promotion here? 🙂 ), and start welting!

STOP RIGHT HERE. Let me point you something interesting about the welt.. or maybe you will realize on your own…

Here it is… Do you see what I am showing you – the welt. Nothing happened with it, except sewing. It says flat without any adjustment. Go back two pics – that explains why.

Ready. Let it rest for a day.

12 thoughts on “Shoemaking tutorial III. – Toe Lasting and Welting

  1. great pictures Marcell nice trick on the tao you meant hold it out away from the shoe when you stitch right? that way it stays in that position and does not flop back against the upper?

  2. This is unique! Showing all it takes to make a shoe. I will also like to see more of it. Thank you for encouraging me more. Israel-Nigeria

  3. great pics….honestly Marcel..I intend to attend one of ur shoe courses in Budapest…plz, can u update me?…reply

  4. When I initially commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox
    and now each time a comment is added I get three e-mails
    with the same comment. Is there any way you
    can remove me from that service? Thanks!

  5. Hello Marcell, this is Tsai. Is the rasp you use curved? Could you show me where to buy? I’m learning to make shoes in Taiwan, but it’s difficult to find shoemaking tools here…
    Thank you very much!

  6. Every weekend i used to pay a quick visit this web site, because i want enjoyment, for the reason that this this web page conations truly fastidious funny material too.

  7. Thanks for ones marvelous posting! I actually enjoyed reading it, you will be
    a great author. I will always bookmark your blog and will eventually come
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  8. Hola. me llamo Pablo. con que material hace la puntera? cuero? o tela de contrafuerte? me refiero al interior, el que limo. se moja y se pega o solo se pega? gracias.

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