New Last, New Project

…and still not the end of the new designs which are coming..

Screen Shot 2013-04-19 at 22.26.42

I might make a tutorial about it, if anyone interested in oxford patterns.. 😉

By the way we still have a few spots left to the courses. If they fill up we only make a waiting list.


Wingtip Derby II. – Pattern Tutorial


This is something, what I teach in the first few classes. Almost the same for every pattern – raise the counter and move in 3-3 millimeters, but the leather can change that). The other line is for lining – a bit more in as that takes less material.


After smoothing the curves I copy the medial lines.


I averaged them, but careful! You can’t do it with every last! The tongue is together with the vamp on the same axis. You need to pivot it down – it will anywhere anyway as it is very narrow.


All the lines are clear, the unnecessary ones erased – ready to make the pattern pieces.


Here they are. Only one step left – make a specification sheet. Copy ALL the visible lines to a piece of paper and make all the stitch lines, brogues, etc + specifications on it, so your upper maker on the other side of the ocean will understand them.


Pattern Making Tutorial – Wingtip Derby

Somewhere a wingtip derby take a special place in our heart, reserved for those day, when we need a little attention to our footwear. this will get that for sure. Recently I met a famous fashion designer – we have regularly some of those at the college I work for – and I have seen a Budapest shoe in his foot. Somehow it looked familiar. Shoes are just shoes for an untrained eye, but you cal tell if you had a closer contact with one. So I asked him, how does he likes his Budapest shoes? He was shocked that I know the name. Then I asked him: did you buy them from this and this company around 20 years ago? Yes, he said and seemed even more surprised. Then I described him how the sole looks like without taking a look and the little decoration which were at the side. Well, I was cheating – I was in that little Hungarian workshop many years ago an an apprentice, so that very shoe could have been my work (very unlikely though, but I made many of those). Triangular brass nails decorations – 4 on the lateral, 3 in the medial side, wide sole painting, little burnishing marks on the heel edge – typical from the Austro-Hungarian school, etc. By the way the shoe was in a amazing condition.

I believe he got the special attention he took that shoe for in the morning. Continue reading Pattern Making Tutorial – Wingtip Derby

A small teaser

…but not a full post.

Screen Shot 2013-04-05 at 17.33.51

So, recently I started to offer consultation for a few companies, which includes design, patterns, prototypes, some logistic and business tips. This needs some custom prototypes, which is possible if the shoe doesn’t have to be wearable, but my opinion is: the shoe should be wearable. Heels, like this (stilettos I mean) are not easy to prototype, that is why I started to make this experiment. I will keep you informed – until now it is very promising.