Here we go again, continuing the derby shoes. To make sure that the adjustment is perfect, we need to use the paper pattern again, and mark the overlaps with a silver pen.
Maybe not necessary to mention, but we don’t want to see these lines after the quarter goes on its place, so we must be very cautious to mark on the right spot.
This is how it look underneaths (with the glue applied). As you can see the lining will be not sewn with the next sewing line.
Now, it is ready to the sewing machine.
Starting with this side – we sew from the bottom, all the way up to the corner and finally the reinforcement seam.
Again: the lining will be NOT part of this seam.
It needs 4-5 stitches to hold the quarter on its place.
The ready seam. The thread must be left long and then pulled inside and fixed with the other thread.
After a quick check we can apply glue and attach the lining together.
The corner of the table is a great help in these processes.
This seam starts with the reinforcement seam. You might want to mark where exactly this goes.
Both lining seam is prepared, we are really close to finish.
Note: the upper must be pulled away from this seam.
And finally some recently acquired hidden eyelets to reinforce the holes (it is not absolutely necessary).
If the thickness is good for the eyelets, they create a really sweet bevelled profile around the hole.
The uppers are done ready for lasting!
THE END
Kösz Marcell! What was used for reinforcements before we had the wonderful tapes?
Leather and textiles. But we did not make these types of shoes in those times.
Really like this series Marcell!
Really good tutorial Marcel. Really nice work utilizing the photos. Thank you
Is there any chance that you could ever do class in San Diego, CA?
Probably not, but in June I will keep one close by in Oregon.