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Shoes and Craft

A shoemaker's blog about shoemaking

Now let’s talk about the terminology a bit.

1. Toe spring. The conversation about the toe spring is pretty old. It depends on schools and personal tastes. Bespoke makers rarely do high toe springs as it doesn’t count to be very attractive, shoe factories a lot. It is a fact that low toe springs has some disadvantages, but quite honestly it doesn’t affect the walking, even the lowest toe spring is very comfy (and if you have doubts – just check the sandals or flip flops – they have nothing). The other concern is the toe area, which might wear off faster. True, but it depends a lot more from the walking style. Shuffling doesn’t help a lot in any toe springs and in the worst case there are great quality toe tip metal plates. Anyway it is a question of taste.

2 toe spring

Let’s talk about comfort! Comfort is pretty much the room in the shoe, in case of a welted shoe (means: we will not talking about the relation between the of the constructions and the comfort.)

When we talk about old fashion fitting for normal feet, we measure the girth at certain points. (if you are not an orthopedic expert, please, please do not take orthopedic orders – you might hurt people and as a bad consequence: lose all of your money, house, etc in a lawsuit).

The most important point: ball, waist, instep, low heel measurement. these suppose to be enough for a good shoe, but an expert eye is necessary. I am not going to teach you how to measure a foot. That would be an illusion to think that you can learn it online, although I can share a few thoughts about it.

upper girth

2. The widths on the bottom. Fee are different. The same ball girth can indicate two identical foot, but nothing is farther from truth that this – a narrow, but higher foot can have the same girth than a wide and relatively flat. You don’t want them to squeezed into the same shoes. So the width is measured on the bottom, like this. It is a little bit more than 1/3 of the girth at the ball point. (again: this is average. We don’t deal with average at custom shoes)

5 toe width

9 shank width

3. Top girth. This is where the rest  of the girth goes. In case of the heel measurement – short heel, long heel, there is nothing going to the bottom, but everything on the top.

upper girth

4. Toe box. This is one of the parameter, what is possible to measure, although impossible to tell how the customer will perceive it. Just because it comfortably cover the toes, a static measurement will not say anything how much he moves his toes inside. Some people doesn’t have the urge to exercise his toes, some will have a panic attach if they can’t. Just consider primitive tribes when they try shoes on the first time. They will feel claustrophobic and get rid of the footwear as soon as they can (I did not make these experiments and I apologize that I can’t insert any links here – if someone finds something, please do not hesitate to share it). What do we expect from the toe box? Nowadays we try to keep it lower, although the elongated toes give a great chance to hide a bigger one. Some models intentionally designed to make it big, especially for special footwear like hiking boots. Bigger toe box, bigger comfort. How we can measure the REAL necessary toe box we need? We don’t, but we can try… This is why we make test shoes.

6 toe box

5. Top length. This will greatly affect the length of the topline, meaning: will it be easy to take the shoe on and will the laces be closed or not?

8 top length


to be continued…


ps. And again: thanks for DELCAM for these pictures!

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