Category Archives: pattern-making

Koronya Intensive Apprenticeship Course, 2014 Summer


Great news, here’s the final schedule for our 2014 Summer Intensive Apprenticeship Course!

Time:

9th (Monday) to 27th (Friday) June 2014, on weekdays
The duration of the course is 3×5 days, that is 15 intensive all day workdays.

Location:

Savannah, GA, USA. This is the only location and time we have for this year, so please make your plans accordingly!

What you will be learning in this three weeks:

A hand welting technique – based on your prior experience, you will be learning one hand welting technique.
Shoes can be either men’s or women’s.
Design, pattern making and upper making. However, due to time and space restraints, we won’t be able to make those uppers into shoes. You will work with the ready made ones provided by me.
Hand finishing: we will not use any machines during the entire process. You will learn the traditional way of sole and heel finishing.
All sorts of tricks of the trade, business tips, etc.

The Koronya intensive course experience:

The intensive apprenticeship course focuses on the construction. We will do our best to provide you with the size of your choice, but supplies are limited. The point is not making shoes for your own use, but to learn the techniques.
You may bring your own lasts and design an upper and make the pattern on them. But the final shoes will be made on the lasts in the sizes that I provide, simply because the uppers we use are specifically designed on these, so they will definitely fit.
When we say intensive, we really mean it! Making a pair of hand welted shoes in three weeks while learning the process of design, pattern making and upper making is demanding. Absolute commitment is required.
All materials will be superior quality Baker leather – Soles, insoles, stiffeners, welts.
All tools used are genuine shoemaking tools and will be provided to all students.

What’s included in the price:

Use of all the tools required in the process
Use of lasts
Patterns made during the classes
One pair of hand-welted shoes, made by you
Water, coffee

What’s not included:

Lodging, food, transportation, etc.

Availability is limited, so early registration is recommended! Please contact me here or at info(at)koronya(dot)com for registration details!

Pattern Making Tutorial – Wingtip Derby


Somewhere a wingtip derby take a special place in our heart, reserved for those day, when we need a little attention to our footwear. this will get that for sure. Recently I met a famous fashion designer – we have regularly some of those at the college I work for – and I have seen a Budapest shoe in his foot. Somehow it looked familiar. Shoes are just shoes for an untrained eye, but you cal tell if you had a closer contact with one. So I asked him, how does he likes his Budapest shoes? He was shocked that I know the name. Then I asked him: did you buy them from this and this company around 20 years ago? Yes, he said and seemed even more surprised. Then I described him how the sole looks like without taking a look and the little decoration which were at the side. Well, I was cheating – I was in that little Hungarian workshop many years ago an an apprentice, so that very shoe could have been my work (very unlikely though, but I made many of those). Triangular brass nails decorations – 4 on the lateral, 3 in the medial side, wide sole painting, little burnishing marks on the heel edge – typical from the Austro-Hungarian school, etc. By the way the shoe was in a amazing condition.

I believe he got the special attention he took that shoe for in the morning. Continue reading Pattern Making Tutorial – Wingtip Derby

Lesson II. – Create a Paper Mock Up and Try It On!


Let’s make the next steps. Design and create! We make 3 simple designs – you can choose which one you like, but just for practice, we are going to make all three, OK? Read the whole lesson before you start.

1. Cut out the sole shape you made from a piece of (preferably a bit heavier) paper

Continue reading Lesson II. – Create a Paper Mock Up and Try It On!

Pattern Construction – Derby I.


Let’s start to make some more difficult patterns – a derby this time.

What we have to know about a derby shoe?

– Casual and not a dress shoe, so a real gentleman would’t wear it at evening.

– relatively easy to find the lines – as this is the school-example for the pattern guidelines – but not easy to find the right proportions.

– it can open wide, so the one most used construction for comfort shoes.

– still holds the foot well, and can fit a wide range of foot.

After this let’s jump to the middle. I enclosed a gallery – the photos made in the classroom by on of my student, Mary – so I believe you can pretty much learn the steps (if you have any idea, what happens there). This time let’s just get until the mean form, then we continue next time with the pieces.

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Insole Shape Construction with the Geometric Method


IMPORTANT: I do not approve to use this tutorial in any blogs, forums, websites  or any printed or broadcasted form. This is created only for personal educational purposes.

Foot measurement is always a question I got from student. I know ways to measure feet, but somehow I always had to tell them, that you, as a shoemaker, not just make shoes for feet, but for minds… how come? Well, some people wants to have really tight ones, some others don’t feel good only in loose footwear – if you just measure feet, you will never realize this. (this is one of the reasons, why remote bespoke process doesn’t work). Anyway, let’s focus on those people, who are not special, and who could be happy, with a normal fit. For these guys, here is a method, how to edit a sole-form, what can be a help for selecting the right last or even make it.

I translated and commented this method from an old book, called  “Cipészipari Ismeretek”, and (I believe) it has been published first in 1897 in Budapest. This is basically the Knöfel geometric method.

So, step by step.. (appreciate it – you can hardly find these steps in the book – they didn’t waste time to use line breaks in the book.. 🙂 )

1. Measure the foot!

2. Let’s calculete with a foot with a 36 PP (24 cm) lenght! balls: 22 cm (width from this: 22-1=21, 21/3=7, 7+1=8 cm. This will be the width of the insole.

3. Create a rectangle! let’s add a half centimeter to the 8, and add 2 cm (modern times: you can use 3) to the lenght.

4. Mark the corners

5. Mark “A” from “1” up 2/3 leght of the foot! (24 cm x 2/3 = 16 cm), then measure up 2 PP* and you get “B”, cut it half and mark “C”

*why 2 PP? Good question, thanks! 36 divided with thew smallest foot size in use: 18. If you make this to a bigger foot size, you have to alter it

6. Start a line from “B” to 2-4. You got “D”

7. Measure 105° from C

8. Name the new points: D, E

9. Mark 1,5 cm from “4” right, 1,75 cm from “3” left

I believe now you can use a picture, hmm?

Good. Focus. More stuff will come.

10. Give 2 cm to the length and draw a line

11. Measure half centimeter from point “B” – name it “F”

12. Connect FG, then DH points

13. take the 1/5 of the length and mark it on the “1” “4” line. Measure down 1 cm. Call them “5” and “6” points

14. Measure 1/2 cm from “6” right (name: “K”) and measure 1/5 of the instep right (This is not a strict rule – check the footprint also!)

15. Connect “K” with the half of “E-C” line (“S”) and “L” with “D”

16. Take the half of “K” “L” line, name it “O” then measure 1 cm left (name “P”)

17. Connect “P” and “F”

18. Make a line from “5” to left and name the new point “M” and “N” – we don’t do nothing with this line at the moment, but this is an important line. We call it (sorry I can just translate Hungarian) “heel-trace-line”.

19. Measure 1/2 cm right from “1” and 2,5 left from “2”. Name them “7” and “8”

20. Almost done! Connect “7” – “K” and “8” – “L”

21. Find the front – take the half of the line there. Name it “I”

If you have followed all the instructions, you must have something like this:

And now freehand drawing, and you are done!

I would do it like this:

Note: this guide is from more than 100 years old – feet were more narrow and fashion was also different.