Tag Archives: shoemaking blog
Before we jump in it – I must warn you – DO NOT START to make a Norwegian, if you don’t have any experience with hand-sewn techniques, because there will be a step, when you need a really steady hand and you can screw up your work with one little sloppy move. I warned you.
We attach the insole and make sure the shank part curls up – we want to make a shank support, so we might want to deal with the technical specification too. This will be educational I promise.
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Let’s start with a sneak peak picture. I made it today, when I was about leaving. I thought some people would be interested to see what I am working on..
These are my actual orders.. Some of them are just laying on the last, without stiffners, some are lasted, waiting for welting and finishing.
First in the row: a new adlaide (I hope it is the name in English). Nothing special…except its material, which is VERY special. The leather has been tanned in Soviet Union, many years ago. Half veg-tannad, hal chrome. Most probably this leather is made for the high ranked army officals’ boot. Almost 2 mm thick, very durable, perfect for bespoke shoes. I have only a few hides from an old shoemaker, no more will come or appear on the market most probably.
Second is a chukka – for myself. Winter is coming. 🙂
Then a straight cut oxford, and an other wholecut from the mentioned material.
This is the method for fixing the upper to the insole, without synthetic (or any) glue. This method is really ancient (I will teach it in my NY course). If someone wants to have something really special – he can have it. Goes to pegged shoes.
[B](There are anyone here who thought about why shoemaker prefers pegged shoes, instead of sewn?
I met many old masters in the last few years, and almost all of them wear pegged shoes.. hmm. [/B]
Finally a nice story about my calf-stingray oxford I posted before:
The customer of this shoes didn’t take it on yet. Actually he keeps it in the display cabinet (?). Very nice from him, very low efficient advertisement for me… 😦